Sea urchins are an elusive luxuryΓÇöyou eat only about a quarter of their innards (the tan to orange roe or gonads), which usually means less than a mouthful per urchin. Still, at their best, they have a subtle yet briny and complex flavor, something like an undiscovered species of oyster. Like oysters, they are eminently enjoyable, especially with a squeeze of lemon.
Where found: Along all coastlines; fished commercially in Maine.
To buy: It is worth opening one sea urchin before buying; make sure the smell is good and that, indeed, there is roe.
To store: In the refrigerator, covered with a damp cloth or paper towel, for a day or two.
To open: Use scissors to enlarge the urchinΓÇÖs existing hole and remove a flap to gain access to the interior. Discard all but the tan or orange roe.
